Replacing Old Basement Framing With New Framing
Whether it is to finish and unfinished basement or to replace old or rotting walls that were installed long ago, it is quite a project taking on the repair or replacement of your basement framing. Read this article to understand the necessary steps to complete the project.
Step 1 - Rip Out the Old Walls
When replacing your basement framing, you must remove the old stud walls. If the old wood shows any mold, dry rot, other signs of aging, do not reuse it. Replace it with new materials.
When taking out the basement framing, be sure to look for support beams that are holding up the ceiling, or in this case, the floor of your home. They can be removed and replaced temporarily with metal supports. Remove any electric boxes and place them aside for future installation. Be sure to cut power to the area in which you are working to avoid electric shock.
Step 2 - Stud Framing Layout
When you build your new basement framing, take into account the clearance from floor to ceiling, as every basement has slightly different dimensions. Measuring the base of your walls to mark the mounting of your frame base for your 2x4-inch beams. You can secure them to the floor using the cement nails. They will drive through the baseline into the existing floor without much effort to secure the foundation of your framed wall.
Step 3 - Starting the Framing
Mark a spot for a vertical post every 4-feet in the around the secured stud base of the wall. Your basement framing be placed on the structure with vertical supports spaced evenly around the room.
The vertical studs may need to be cut to accommodate the ceiling support beams and distance from the floor. Studs come in a standard length of 8-feet. If your basement is 6-feet tall, the beams should be 5.6-feet long to allow 2-inches above the frame support beam studs.
Step 4 - Install the Top Support Studs
Mount and secure the top support beams. Stagger them so that the ends rest half way over a vertical to ensure that the weight is supported properly and that the cross beams will not slip from the vertical supports. They can be tapped into place using a rubber mallet to avoid bruising the wood. Secure them upward at an angle with either wood screws or carpenters nails.
Step 5 - Finishing Up
Use the bore to run wires and pipes through your vertical supports to accommodate your electrical outlets and piping fixtures. Apply hangers on the pipes and lines inside the frame before insulating and sealing the walls shut with the plywood to prevent them from drooping in the cavity later.