Sheet Vinyl Flooring 7 - Installing the Flooring Sheet Vinyl Flooring 7 - Installing the Flooring

Margin of Error: Within 1/4" at edges, exact at seams

Most Common Mistakes

  1. When estimating the amount of sheet vinyl or perimeter bond material, forgetting to account for pattern matching at a seam.
  2. Unrolling perimeter bond sheet vinyl too early, or waiting too long to lay it, thereby causing it to shrink before it is permanently laid in place.
  3. Neglecting to use flooring materials with the compatible adhesive and appropriate trowel at seams.

Perimeter Bond Sheet Vinyl Flooring

Carry your roll of cut vinyl flooring into the room in which it will be installed. Carefully unroll and position it over the clean, dry floor, matching up the landmarks you indicated on your template.

Carefully assess your cutting job. If any additional trimming needs to be done, this is the time to do it before any adhesives have been applied.

The first part of the new floor to be secured is the seam. This is done by applying the adhesive along the floor between the two sections of flooring. First, gently fold back one section and temporarily tape it back out of the way. Draw a pencil line along the edge of the other section to mark the seam line. Gently fold back the second section and tape it out of the way.

Apply a band of adhesive to the underlying floor surface along the seam-line, using the recommended notched-tooth metal trowel. Remember that the old floor needs to be dean and free of wax.

Check the manufacturer's recommendations at this point. Some require only a 3 band (1 1/2 on either side of the pencil line); others may require as much as 6" of adhesive 3 on either side of the seam.

Apply the adhesive all along the pencil line to about 1/2' away from any cabinets. You want to stop the adhesive here, so that, once the seam is pressed together and rolled, you will be able to fold back the flooring under the cabinets to apply adhesive there. You have to glue the areas under cabinets. You cannot get a staple gun under the cabinet overhang.

Lay one piece into the adhesive, and then the other. Make sure the edges of the vinyl are tight against each other. If you don't, you'll get a condition called ledging where one side rides up higher than the other. Dirt can build up here and draw attention to the seam. Now go over the seam with a rolling pin or seam roller, to press the vinyl into the adhesive and eliminate ledging.

To prevent moisture from getting under the floor along this seam, use a special seam sealer kit. Read and follow the instructions carefully. When applying solvent, hold the bottle at the proper angle and don't wipe up any of the excess. It will dissolve, and you won't see it after a short time. Give the seam a few hours to set up before walking on it.

Use the adhesive, as instructed, on the perimeter areas that are visible without a molding or in areas where you are unable to use your staple gun. Roll the edge back apply the adhesive in the proper amount with the notched trowel or manufacturer's suggested applicator, and press it into place with the roller.

For the edges that will be covered by the quarter round trim, I find that staples applied with a staple gun work best. They are fast and provide great holding power. In addition, there will be fewer problems with temperature and humidity than there would be with adhesives. Staple close to the wall so the molding will cover the staples.

This type of vinyl floor, being perimeter bonded, will now contract slightly, tightening like a drumhead over the next 24 to 48 hours. Because of this, wait until the floor has contracted to its final tension before moving the furniture and appliances back onto it.

Finishing up is a simple matter of replacing the trim and thresholds you removed at the start of the project

Note: These days, vinyl floors are made to be no-wax. Once the floor has contracted into its final position, all you have to do is damp mop. As always, follow the manufacturer's suggestions for cleaning and care.



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